This vintage LeCoultre Memodate has had some very light work done to the hands to prevent further cracking of the tritium, preserving the integrity of the dialĮxchanging dial and hands doesn’t just drastically devalue the watch, it looks plain terrible and often times the dial and hands won’t be the original style – imagine a matte dial being exchanged for a glossy one. And on occasion the dial is kept original with only the hands having been exchanged. Original, age-appropriate dials and hands are where the money is as collectors always demand original patina.įar too often we come across beautiful vintage pieces that have glaringly bright luminous markers radiating as if they were manufactured last week. Similar to refinishing, the value of the watch must be considered however, deciding whether to keep original dials and hands is almost always an area of no compromise: original is best. Whether a gasket is compromised or not, replacement is always recommended.Ĭertain manufacturers employed lead gaskets in past times if your watch is still fitted with such a gasket, changing for a new rubber gasket would be prudent to ensure the watch keeps the elements out. Gaskets must always be changed when restoring a vintage watch as over time they can become brittle, crack, flatten, and – in some cases – turn to goo. Similar to the crystal, gaskets are a crucial line of defense against the outside world. Original crystals produced by the manufacturer must always be insisted upon to ensure the watch’s integrity and longevity as ill-fitting aftermarket components can cause compromise. If that is allowed to happen, the value of the watch will certainly decline. Leaving a cracked or damaged crystal can allow moisture or dirt to enter, causing irreparable damage in some cases. Replacing a damaged crystal with a correct, original crystal is good practice as it ensures the dial, hands, and movement are protected. Ouchhh! This Rolex Submariner has seen better times However, the crystal is the first line of defense against the elements and if damaged should be replaced. If a crystal is original and in working order, keeping the original will do no harm. Some claim original crystals should be left as is, arguing the replacement can devalue the timepiece. So if you do decide to go the refinishing route, it is imperative you choose someone who knows what they are doing and has the correct machinery and equipment.Īn expert watchmaker isn’t necessarily a master of refinishing, so look for an expert in the field. If the decision is to refinish, it’s crucial to understand there are varying degrees of refinishing: some watchmakers are masters of their craft and others are hacks. If in any doubt, don’t do it! You can always have it refinished later, but you can’t undo what has already been done. Why do you own the watch? Is it an investment or do you plan to wear the watch? Is it a family heirloom or are you hoping to sell it down the line?Īll these questions come into play when considering refinishing. If you own a mid-level watch, say a vintage Rolex Submariner worth $7,000-$10,000, you need to consider the matter carefully. Many collectors of fine vintage watches prefer them unpolished and original, thus rendering an unpolished example more valuable. If you own a 1965 Omega Seamaster, it’s not as crucial as the watch isn’t really worth that much to begin with. If you own a Paul Newman Rolex Daytona or a Milsub (nickname for a Rolex Submariner issued to British Royal Navy divers in the 1960s and 1970s), this is sound advice. Lange & Söhne Double Split after refurbishment
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